Pesticides of yesteryear were relatively toxic, broad spectrum with some environmental impact. They were so effective gardeners used them as the ‘solution’ to control pests and diseases. Most of today’s garden pesticides are less effective, harmless to people, safe to bees, with very low impact on beneficial insects and the soil.
This means in order to achieve a satisfactory result we should implement as many of the above practices as possible. Ensure the pesticides selected are effective and use them at the correct time, applied thoroughly.
Sadly, the news media (social media, garden magazines and mainstream media) have demonised pesticides using false information.
Of the approximate 50 garden pesticides available in NZ, 7 are classified ‘harmful substances’ (classification 6.1D, 6.1E) and the remainder are classified as ‘Not Harmful’.
Poisons—classification 6.1C, are banned from sale and use in home gardens and are no longer available. Known carcinogens have always been banned for commercial or home garden use.
All home garden pesticides are safe to bees once the spray has dried on.Spray early morning or evening when bees are not present.
It should also be remembered that —
Although more than 80% of garden pesticides are classified ‘Not Harmful’, no gardener wants to use a pesticide more than necessary or if it can be avoided. However, they remain an important tool among several as listed above. Each of these tools on its own is not the answer, but if all are used in unison, the need for pesticide use is significantly reduced. However, the appropriate pesticide used at the correct time remains a very effective tool in controlling garden pests and diseases.
The law covering pesticides is stricter than that covering foods. For example, if alcohol was a pesticide it would be banned —it is a known carcinogen and body organ toxicant, killing over 500 New Zealanders every year. Organic vinegar is banned as a weedkiller in concentrate form because it is classified a poison—it can only be sold in diluted ready to use form.
Grosafe Enspray 99 + Grosafe BioNeem for aphids, white fly, thrips, mites (also powdery mildew). AddYates Mavrik if chewing insects appear.
Add Grosafe Free Flo Copper (copper hydroxide) if diseases appear. These products are all safe to bees once spray has dried. The Grosafe products mentioned are all certified organic, approved for use on all edibles and have a nil withholding period.Yates Mavrik is a man-made copy of pyrethrum which is safer and more effective.
Grosafe Enspray 99 + Grosafe BioNeem for aphids, white fly, thrips, mites (also powdery mildew). Add Yates Success Ultra if caterpillars, codling moth, or beetles are a problem.
-Yates Natures Way Natrasoap can be used in place of Grosafe Enspray 99 but is more expensive.
-Yates Success Ultra can be used on vegetables in place of Yates Mavrik for chewing insects, but we prefer Mavrik because it controls sucking insects at the same time reducing the need for an additional type of product.
Do not use unregistered remedies on edibles —
-Unregistered brands of Neem – Native Neem, Oakdale Neem, Wally’s Super Neem
These brands contain only 25% of the active ingredient compared to others, and they may have unknown levels of a natural toxin.
-Do not use Diatomaceous Earth, DeBug etc. on edibles.
We do not recommend pyrethrum as this is toxic to beneficial insects.
Grosafe Free Flo Copper as a general fungicide for fruit and vegetable (avoiding copper sensitive plants/periods). It provides superior results compared to copper oxychloride at lower cost, and lower copper footprint. Liquid coppers are effective and low cost, but must be used alone, and have many sensitivities.
Grosafe Enspray 99 oil is effective in prevention and cure of Powdery Mildew.
For brown rot or botrytis, try Botry-Zen but it is vital it is not used within 2 weeks of a copper spray and fungicides can't be applied after application. It has to be applied at strategic times but it has no withholding period. It is also proving effective against Rust on Garlic when applied from sprout emergence.
Companion planting contributes to making the garden attractive, but based on science, provides little or no benefit to pest and disease control.
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